Tools and Shop Talk - Opinions, Thoughts, Reviews, B.S., etc.

[Slim-Whitey]

I agree. The best tool for the job is the one that gets the job done to an acceptable level and the lowest cost. But I love tools and I ever fretted about the money to get the tools I want.

My next purchases are going to be in the Makita XGT line. Track saw and the 12" miter saw. I am almost 100% cordless at this point. The 10-1/4" circ saw from Makita I got last year is killer.
Just waiting on the 40v dust collectors to come out.

I'll never go full cordless.
Batteries are too expensive, and runing cords has never bothered me.
Certain tools I understand, obviously.
But, for instance, Milwaukee has a cordless compressor. Some little 2 gal thing. Guy at Prime Fasteners says "oh yeah, guys love em for finishing work!"
Why? By the time a unit is in the finishing stage. . . There's power everywhere.

I won't take the plunge on a full bore track saw, so I bought the Kreg AccuCut jig last year.

With a good blade, it's as accurate as your marking ability is.

DeWalt makes a track saw now, I believe. With an interesting feature, as I recall.

The track shoe is screwed t the shoe of a standard DeWalt skill saw, should you desire.

Dunno if that's available with the Makita. I had also heard that the Makita tracks were interchangeable with the Fes ones.

 

[Stairgod]

I'll never go full cordless.
Batteries are too expensive, and runing cords has never bothered me.
Certain tools I understand, obviously.
But, for instance, Milwaukee has a cordless compressor. Some little 2 gal thing. Guy at Prime Fasteners says "oh yeah, guys love em for finishing work!"
Why? By the time a unit is in the finishing stage. . . There's power everywhere.

I won't take the plunge on a full bore track saw, so I bought the Kreg AccuCut jig last year.

With a good blade, it's as accurate as your marking ability is.

DeWalt makes a track saw now, I believe. With an interesting feature, as I recall.

The track shoe is screwed t the shoe of a standard DeWalt skill saw, should you desire.

Dunno if that's available with the Makita. I had also heard that the Makita tracks were interchangeable with the Fes ones.

DeWalts track saw has been out for a few years iirc. Not sure about any special features.
Makita, Festool and Mafell tracks and saws are all interchangeable, but only the Makita tracks allow for Makita's anti-tip feature.
Being cordless means no fighting for limited outlets. No matter what job I am on or which electrician I use when I am in trim stage there are still only the temp outlets in the bathrooms and the fucking tile guy is always using those.
No need for a cordless compressor as I have battery nailers from framer down to pinner.
Last count between home shop, job shop and job site I have over 70 batteries between M18 and M12. And no I don't really want to think about what they cost me. The 12ah batteries never cost me more than $150 as I never buy at full retail. If I find at deal at or close to $10 per amp hour I jump on them

 

[Slim-Whitey]

That sounds like some poor arrangements with your general, (unless you are the general, ha)

We don't get the finishers in until we've got power almost everywhere. That's just how it is. Every so often you get some extenuating circumstance, but, moses, finishing a unit with only a handful of plugs, yikes.

One thing I'd like to get is a Makita 1" belt sander.
I've borrowed one from a wily old finisher we have at work. The grizzled beard, half a cigarette in his mouth, always muttering kind of guy. Never seems to be working, but never seems to be behind.
Anyway, he has one of these things, and it's the cats ass when you're dealing with renovation walls and tons of scribing.

One of our other supers has a standing bet with me.
He has a Milwaukee cordless framing nailer.
One of these days him and I are going to be framing on the same job, and we're going to see who is faster. Him with his Milly, or me, with my Paslode and compressor.
I even told him that he can start with a full 6.0, and I'll have to take the time to set up my compressor and hoses.

 

[Stairgod]

That sounds like some poor arrangements with your general, (unless you are the general, ha)

We don't get the finishers in until we've got power almost everywhere. That's just how it is. Every so often you get some extenuating circumstance, but, moses, finishing a unit with only a handful of plugs, yikes.

One thing I'd like to get is a Makita 1" belt sander.
I've borrowed one from a wily old finisher we have at work. The grizzled beard, half a cigarette in his mouth, always muttering kind of guy. Never seems to be working, but never seems to be behind.
Anyway, he has one of these things, and it's the cats ass when you're dealing with renovation walls and tons of scribing.

I am the job super.
In the states, shock jockeys are fucking prima donnas. I had one threaten to pull his permit and walk off the job because I tossed some breakers into the panel and put in some outlets so we could run multiple table and chop saws. So we are always behind with the electric.
And FYI I have a grizzled beard, chain smoke, and find myself muttering more and more often

 

[Slim-Whitey]

I am the job super.
In the states, shock jockeys are fucking prima donnas. I had one threaten to pull his permit and walk off the job because I tossed some breakers into the panel and put in some outlets so we could run multiple table and chop saws. So we are always behind with the electric.
And FYI I have a grizzled beard, chain smoke, and find myself muttering more and more often

Ha, they try that shit here every so often.
It never pans out.

Had some that didn't want to run wire through an attic space cause it was dirty.

It went very poorly for them. Some are good, some really need their dickbeaters slapped.

Doors and door hardware kick our ass on every job.
12 week lead time for doors.
Good luck getting shop drawings confirmed.
Door hardware shops are the same. Just a nightmare. Then they'll ship it, send the wrong shit, and want us to pay to get the right shit.

Not long ago, we had 49 (FORTY NINE) solid core wood doors for a school show up with the wrong hinge offsets, and handing.

That was a bad. . Bad day.
Something like 48 days for the right ones.

 

[Chris In Milwaukee]

I’ve got a Delta 36-600 table saw that I’ve had for over 20 years. It’s always done what I’ve asked of it and has been reliable.

It does have a second motor in it since the original has known issues and did fail. But this one has been going for well over ten.

Debating something a bit more modern with a proper riving knife and dust collection, neither of which this has. I could put some kind of adapter plate on the bottom to catch dust, and the OEM blade guard does have a splitter. But it’s not a riving knife and it’s gone when the blade guard is off.

Worth the effort? Keep this one until it burns up? Sell it while it works? Riving knife worth the effort to trade up? Do I just like spending money (yes is the answer to that one)? The newer portable contractor saws seems to be getting good marks for reliability, strength, and accuracy and often come with folding stands.

 

[Dezert4Runner]

I finally finished the workbench frame and put a metal top on it and stitch welded it on. I used 1/4” plate for the top and have plans to incorporate a hitch receiver frenched into the left outside edge of the frame (next to the paper towel holder in the photo) with some bracing so I can mount the vise and remove it when not needed. It’s a small bench in a 1 car garage, so usable benchtop work space is a precious commodity! The table is only 44”L x 28”W.

I also got my rear UCA’s from Front Range today

 

[Stairgod]

I’ve got a Delta 36-600 table saw that I’ve had for over 20 years. It’s always done what I’ve asked of it and has been reliable.
View attachment 71247
It does have a second motor in it since the original has known issues and did fail. But this one has been going for well over ten.

Debating something a bit more modern with a proper riving knife and dust collection, neither of which this has. I could put some kind of adapter plate on the bottom to catch dust, and the OEM blade guard does have a splitter. But it’s not a riving knife and it’s gone when the blade guard is off.

Worth the effort? Keep this one until it burns up? Sell it while it works? Riving knife worth the effort to trade up? Do I just like spending money (yes is the answer to that one)? The newer portable contractor saws seems to be getting good marks for reliability, strength, and accuracy and often come with folding stands.

If it works for you, keep it.
Riving knife is unnecessary imo.
I have always preferred a rack and pinion fence over any other type as they are the easiest and most accurate to set.
My shop saw has a Powermatic fence that is as good as a Beisemeyer but R&P designs are better, but I have yet to see them in a large saw unless it's an old one.
If you need portability, the DeWalt on the rolling stand is a good saw that I have used for a number of years.
If you need more power for dado sets or thicker hardwoods, any of the import cabinet saws should do the trick. Regardless of the paint job, they are all the same with the exception of the electricals. Biggest difference will be in the quality of the fence.
And for the love of all that is sacred, do not buy a right tilt saw. I still cannot think of a single reason where anyone would use a right tilt unless they are a lefty.

 

[WileECoyote]

Are any of the OEMTools products any good? For example, looking to get a Li-Ion jump starter pack.

What about Schumacher jump start packs?

I trust your guys reviews more because you guys know how to beat the living crap out of things!!!

 

[Dezert4Runner]

Are any of the OEMTools products any good? For example, looking to get a Li-Ion jump starter pack.

What about Schumacher jump start packs?

I trust your guys reviews more because you guys know how to beat the living crap out of things!!!

I’ve used the OEMTools loaner tools from the auto parts stores. The pitman arm puller and coil spring compressor. They work just fine. No experience with any of their other products though.

 

[Itaro]

Are any of the OEMTools products any good? For example, looking to get a Li-Ion jump starter pack.

What about Schumacher jump start packs?

I trust your guys reviews more because you guys know how to beat the living crap out of things!!!

I bought a NOCO a few years ago. Not a huge one but it’s jumped a few cars.

The one I have can’t jump a battery that’s fully drained

NOCO Boost Plus GB40 1000 Amp 12-Volt UltraSafe Lithium Jump Starter Box, Car Battery Booster Pack, Portable Power Bank Charger, and Jumper Cables For Up To 6-Liter Gasoline and 3-Liter Diesel Engines https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015TKUPI...t_i_BG0SR85G7EH1TH26VHD4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

[WileECoyote]

I bought a NOCO a few years ago. Not a huge one but it’s jumped a few cars.

The one I have can’t jump a battery that’s fully drained

NOCO Boost Plus GB40 1000 Amp 12-Volt UltraSafe Lithium Jump Starter Box, Car Battery Booster Pack, Portable Power Bank Charger, and Jumper Cables For Up To 6-Liter Gasoline and 3-Liter Diesel Engines https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015TKUPI...t_i_BG0SR85G7EH1TH26VHD4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I'm not too unfamiliar with jump packs, if that makes any sense? Or put another way, I have had a jump pack bought from Harbor Freight for years and it has worked very well. I just want to maybe eventually get a smaller jump pack. I'm just "new", if you will, to the Lithium jump packs and I just want to get a lithium jump pack from a name brand that is a bit more of a "well known" name brand. Not just for the name, but "peace of mind" that it can be reliable for sure not that my older Harbor Freight gel battery jump pack hasn't, just saying when it comes to the lithium jump packs.

I've been reading about NOCO and man, they seem to be one of the most well respected jump packs from what I was able to read so far. I also have an older Shumacher gel battery type jump pack that has done well for me.

Regarding the flashlight type feature, I do like how it has strobe flashing. Others do as well, but I like this one overall.

I like the OEMTools jump packs, but they can be a bit pricey. I also don't care too much for the jump connection cable on the OEMTools as it seems a bit "janky".


The NOCO jump connection looks very solid and the unit even has an IP rating, whereas the others don't from what I'm able to see. Having an IP rating says a lot from my experiences. I just don't care for the "carry case" though. I know it's just a carry case, but I just would rather it be a small "hard soft case" (i.e. not a bag). But anyways, that cable connection is very solid looking!!!


EDIT: they do SELL a NOCO hard-soft case for this particular unit on Amazon. Very nice!!!

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GBC013-Boost-Sport-Protection/dp/B07C2VZGJY/ref=pd_day0fbt_2/132-5174743-6245913?pd_rd_w=MJDPK&pf_rd_p=bcb8482a-3db5-4b0b-9f15-b86e24acdb00&pf_rd_r=S71JGEKX3AWFKVSF5ZMT&pd_rd_r=2e6fa52d-3849-4ba1-b559-482eaab54374&pd_rd_wg=GOHqM&pd_rd_i=B07C2VZGJY&psc=1

Other than that, I think overall the NOCO is likely the better one to get.

Thank you everyone for your input.

 

[Stairgod]

I'm not too unfamiliar with jump packs, if that makes any sense? Or put another way, I have had a jump pack bought from Harbor Freight for years and it has worked very well. I just want to maybe eventually get a smaller jump pack. I'm just "new", if you will, to the Lithium jump packs and I just want to get a lithium jump pack from a name brand that is a bit more of a "well known" name brand. Not just for the name, but "peace of mind" that it can be reliable for sure not that my older Harbor Freight gel battery jump pack hasn't, just saying when it comes to the lithium jump packs.

I've been reading about NOCO and man, they seem to be one of the most well respected jump packs from what I was able to read so far. I also have an older Shumacher gel battery type jump pack that has done well for me.

Regarding the flashlight type feature, I do like how it has strobe flashing. Others do as well, but I like this one overall.

I like the OEMTools jump packs, but they can be a bit pricey. I also don't care too much for the jump connection cable on the OEMTools as it seems a bit "janky".
View attachment 72807

The NOCO jump connection looks very solid and the unit even has an IP rating, whereas the others don't from what I'm able to see. Having an IP rating says a lot from my experiences. I just don't care for the "carry case" though. I know it's just a carry case, but I just would rather it be a small "hard soft case" (i.e. not a bag). But anyways, that cable connection is very solid looking!!!
View attachment 72808

EDIT: they do SELL a NOCO hard-soft case for this particular unit on Amazon. Very nice!!!

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GBC013-Boost-Sport-Protection/dp/B07C2VZGJY/ref=pd_day0fbt_2/132-5174743-6245913?pd_rd_w=MJDPK&pf_rd_p=bcb8482a-3db5-4b0b-9f15-b86e24acdb00&pf_rd_r=S71JGEKX3AWFKVSF5ZMT&pd_rd_r=2e6fa52d-3849-4ba1-b559-482eaab54374&pd_rd_wg=GOHqM&pd_rd_i=B07C2VZGJY&psc=1

Other than that, I think overall the NOCO is likely the better one to get.

Thank you everyone for your input.

No complaints so far. Used it to jump start a few vehicles and to try to get my buddy home when his alternator failed.
Has flashlight with two strobe functions.

 

[WileECoyote]

View attachment 72809
No complaints so far. Used it to jump start a few vehicles and to try to get my buddy home when his alternator failed.
Has flashlight with two strobe functions.

I like how they also look a bit more "rugged". I like the more solid built looking cases quite honestly vs the other cases.

 

[Stairgod]

I like how they also look a bit more "rugged". I like the more solid built looking cases quite honestly vs the other cases.

It is very compact and the case seems very rugged. Been banging around on my PS rear floorboard for 18 months with no issue

 

[Chris In Milwaukee]

Walking along, minding my own business, and then BAM! Slipped and bought a Makita track saw. DAMMIT! I hate it when that happens. Surprised it came with a pretty dang nice case. I wasn’t expecting that.

Local shop was having a tool sale so got a free jigsaw with the purchase of saw and track.

Looks like I’m going to get used to the Makita ecosystem now.

They had the 40V single battery tools out, but there’s only a few 40V tools compared to the bajillion 18V ones. So stayed that path.

 

[Stairgod]

Walking along, minding my own business, and then BAM! Slipped and bought a Makita track saw. DAMMIT! I hate it when that happens. Surprised it came with a pretty dang nice case. I wasn’t expecting that.

Local shop was having a tool sale so got a free jigsaw with the purchase of saw and track.

Looks like I’m going to get used to the Makita ecosystem now.

They had the 40V single battery tools out, but there’s only a few 40V tools compared to the bajillion 18V ones. So stayed that path.

View attachment 73623View attachment 73624View attachment 73625

40v Makita track saw is in my future. Already bought into the system with the 10-1/4 cord saw, so why not.
Great saw now matter which battery platform.

 

[not_nick]

The whole idea of buying tools based on the battery and charger you have really only saves you if you only have a few tools. If you have like four tools it'd be way more expensive to get a separate battery and charger for each. If you have an arsenal or you're a tradesman for a living it's not that big a deal to have a couple odd balls except for runtime. The batteries are mostly all the same cost wise between the brands so you're really only hurt by buying another charger or extra batteries for a long runtime

 

[Stairgod]

The whole idea of buying tools based on the battery and charger you have really only saves you if you only have a few tools. If you have like four tools it'd be way more expensive to get a separate battery and charger for each. If you have an arsenal or you're a tradesman for a living it's not that big a deal to have a couple odd balls except for runtime. The batteries are mostly all the same cost wise between the brands so you're really only hurt by buying another charger or extra batteries for a long runtime

I am deep into Milwaukee. 80+ batteries between M18 and M12. Getting into Makita's XGT line because Big Red doesn't have a track saw or 10-1/4 circ saw.
And the new vacs they came out with don't have any connectivity to tools. Makita has AWS. I am now 90% battery powered. No more fighting over outlets with subs on my jobs. Not ever going back to cords.

Home gamers should just buy Ryobi. Good tools at a good price point. And with their newest offerings the only tools missing are a cordless pressure washer and a wife pleaser.
No matter what platform you buy into, batteries are the biggest cost unless you are ok with waiting for batteries to charge so you can finish the project

 

[Dan H]

I use Ryobi 18v. I have 8 tools and 4 batteries. They are for doing home repairs and have worked great.