Random shit
- Thread starter clearock
- Start date
I used the OEM ECU from the Aristo as I stayed with the sequential twin turbo system and also wanted to maintain the factory shift programming that came with the JDM 2jz-gte vvti that de-powers just before shifting the auto trans to help with the trans life. No aftermarket ECU can do this that I'm aware of... as most people just throw a manual trans behind their 2jz and go with an aftermarket ECU for easier tuning with the high HP their after. My goal is 450 but running stock numbers to start until after I make sure everything else to working correctly before adding a piggyback to the OEM ECU.
With how common unloading is in every modern trans out there, I'm a little shocked no one offers that kind of tuning for the world's second most popular inline 6.
Kinda stunned.
Well done on keeping it though. I'm making sure I can retain that feature with my 6l90 as well.
This build makes me want to go finish welding my stuff up.
Started Driving it on the Street a little, going through shit to get the Full Hydro steering to driver more friendly. Welding the telescoping steering shaft into a one piece and that made a lot of difference, sure my measuring tape alignment isn't helping.
Been driving it as much as I can to work out all the different issues that arise. The front winch has to be relocated as is blocks to much air flow at speed. Gotten the steering dialed in fairly good, can drive on the Hwy and Interstate without issue (steering is more response then normal types but other then a little lane side to side from time to time) I can drive 65 mph and when needed pass people at 75-80 mph.
Looking for some insight into an issue I'm having. My rear diff will not stop pushing gear oil out the breather (said is rised all the way up by the fuel fill point) while driving. With the whole set-up being custom I figured I just over filled the housing and at some point it would find an equilibrium point and stop, but this hasn't happened yet and I am both getting tried of cleaning said off as well as don't want to run it low on oil. I filled the housing up to the bottom of the axle tube housings to start as there's no clear "fill to this point" that I am aware of...
set-up info: Ruffstuff housing, outer are complete E350 Dana 60 spindles, brakes, etc I cut off said and used on the housing, ARB air locker (100% it is not air leaking into the housing as it started before having the air system done), RCV axles, 4:88 gears, all new everything on the tundra 10.5 drop-out (only thing not replaced with new is the main tundra housing). Now my thought is it could be this next thing: I changed the tubes from being flood type by Adding seals at the 3rd/tube point like on the front axle housing and just grease the outer bearings etc.. Could this be causing a pressure issues inside the housing?
set-up info: Ruffstuff housing, outer are complete E350 Dana 60 spindles, brakes, etc I cut off said and used on the housing, ARB air locker (100% it is not air leaking into the housing as it started before having the air system done), RCV axles, 4:88 gears, all new everything on the tundra 10.5 drop-out (only thing not replaced with new is the main tundra housing). Now my thought is it could be this next thing: I changed the tubes from being flood type by Adding seals at the 3rd/tube point like on the front axle housing and just grease the outer bearings etc.. Could this be causing a pressure issues inside the housing?
Post a picture of where the tube comes out of the housing. I am asking this bec maybe it’s a location/ fluid rotation thing. I know I am not using the cores terminology but in my head it makes total sense.
Stairgod
Two bad decisions away from buying a bulldozer
- Joined
- Apr 22, 2019
- Messages
- 2,493
You have me scratching my head on this one.
First off with the tubes being dry the oil level will have to be lower.
Fluid volume vs total volume is now substantially lower. If enough gear oil gets slung to cover the vent hole the rising pressure(coinciding with temperature increase) is likely pushing the gear oil out of the tube and at that point venting is not happening.
However the vent is only there to vent excess pressure when hot and allow air back in when things cool so you don't push oil past the seals.
I would look into the fill hole/axle tube distance on a typical sealed diff housing on a few different stock axles to determine the proper fill level. I would assume the carrier bearings being at least 25% covered would suffice. Also be nice to know what diff temperature is from typical use. Temperature gun came in handy during my latest r&p break in.
First off with the tubes being dry the oil level will have to be lower.
Fluid volume vs total volume is now substantially lower. If enough gear oil gets slung to cover the vent hole the rising pressure(coinciding with temperature increase) is likely pushing the gear oil out of the tube and at that point venting is not happening.
However the vent is only there to vent excess pressure when hot and allow air back in when things cool so you don't push oil past the seals.
I would look into the fill hole/axle tube distance on a typical sealed diff housing on a few different stock axles to determine the proper fill level. I would assume the carrier bearings being at least 25% covered would suffice. Also be nice to know what diff temperature is from typical use. Temperature gun came in handy during my latest r&p break in.
@Stairgod lays it out eloquently. I am not as fancy with words so here is a video showing how that oil gets flung around. If the oil is being flung right to the bottom of that vent tube then pressure increase from heat build up I can see how it will burp its way to the top. Like stairgod said a good staring point will be the correct amount of fluid. Then go from there.
Yes he does.