Lockers (Pro's and Con's of each type)

AssBurns

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Let's talk about the Pro's and Con's of different lockers, and our likes and dislikes of each type of locker.

There are two main ways to categorize lockers:
  • Selectable Lockers
  • Auto-Lockers

Selectable lockers are lockers that are manually engaged or disengaged via a switch, button, lever, etc. Once the locker is engaged, it stays engaged until you manually disengage it.
The benefit of selectable lockers is that you get to decide when they are engaged and disengaged. Some of the reasons you would want to manually disengage would be when you are in a tight situation and having the front or rear locked could cause difficult steering or binding. You also don't want to have lockers on when you are diving on the road in wet, snowy or icy conditions, as this could cause loss of traction and potentially loss of control. Having a selectable gives you the benefit of choice.
The disadvantages of selectable lockers is that they typically cost more money, they require external components to engage such as a air compressor, air line and solenoid, electric motor, or cable attached to a lever. There are more potential points of failure due to the complexity.

Auto-Lockers are lockers are lockers that automatically engage using mechanical components that lock up the differential once a tire starts to lose traction. This is different than posi-trac or limited slip, because actually locks the differential rather limit the amount of slip to a varying degree (auto-lockers are either on or off, nothing in between), but works in a similar way.
The benefit of an auto-locker is that they are usually cheap, easy to install, and don't require any extra parts to engage since they engage on their own without the need for manual engagement from the driver.
The disadvantage of auto-lockers is that they will lock when you don't always want them to, they can be noisy when turning due to the clicking nature of some of them, they typically aren't as strong as some of the selectable locker options.



Types of Selectable Lockers
  • Air Lockers (ARB, Yukon Zip)
  • Electric Lockers (Toyota OEM E-Locker, Eaton E-Locker, Harrop)
  • Cable Locker (OX Locker)



Air Lockers are actuated by using pressurized air to lock the differential. This is done by using an air compressor or an air tank. There is a solenoid that is activated by an electric switch to allow the pressurized air to activate the locker or release the air to deactivate the locker. So whether you have an air compressor or an air tank, you will still need to wire a switch for the solenoid.
The benefit of air lockers is that they are pretty simple and strong designs (Especially ARB, which is probably the strongest option for selectable lockers). They are typically easy to pinpoint the point of failure which is usually an air leak somewhere. If the air leak is in the air line, it can be an easy trail repair using some extra air line and compression fittings. These lockers air extremely quick to engage and disengage which makes them great for tight situations or racing applications. Also having an air supply is something that can be dual purpose to air up tires.
The disadvantage of these lockers is that they require an air compressor that can fail, or an air tank that can run out of air. The bonded seal in the ARB's has been a known point of failure for the past couple years, and requires you to pull the diff to repair. If you cannot get enough air pressure to your locker, you will not be able to manually activate it in any way.

ARB Air Locker
ARB Locker.jpg

ARB Compressor and Solenoids
promo-arb-parts.jpg


E-Lockers. There are two main types that work in different ways.
One is the Toyota OEM E-Locker that come from the Toyota factory. This one uses an electric motor to drive a gear that moves a shift fork to engage the locker. All done by the push of a button.
The benefit of the Toyota E-Locker is that they come stock on many Toyota vehicles. The biggest benefit in my eyes is that they can be manually engaged if there is an issue with the electrical components or motor. You just gotta pull the electric motor and use a pry bar or something similar to engage or disengage the gear/shift fork.
The disadvantage of the Toyota E-locker is that the differential itself is a inherently weaker design than the standard 8" Toyota diff. The electrical components can also be difficult to track down issues. You cannot engage these at any speed. You must be driving under 5 mph when engaging.

Toyota OEM E-Locker
Toyota electric_locker.jpg


The next one is the Eaton E-Locker and Harrop E-Locker. They both use the same design and are manufactured by Eaton.
The advantage of the Eaton/Harrop E-Locker is the lack of air compressor or air tank to take up room in your vehicle to add additional switches to your dash. This is all electrical driven using electromagnetics to actuate the locker.
The disadvantage is that they are sometimes more expensive than the Air Lockers, they are not quite as strong, and they do not instantly lock up when you push the button or flip the switch. They take about 270* of tire rotation to fully activate, which can be an issue if you are in a tight situation or have an heavy foot. You cannot engage these at any speed.

Eaton/ Harrop E-Locker
Eaton.jpg


Cable Lockers are lockers that are activated using a cable with a lever similar to parking brakes. There is an actuator that attaches to the inside of the diff cover to engage the locker components in the carrier.
The benefits are that it is a simple mechanical design that doesn't need any electrical or air components to engage. If wanted, there is an air actuator upgrade option.
The disadvantage is that the cable may be hard to engage if the cable has a lot of curves in the line connecting the lever to the diff. There is the cable the hangs out the side of the diff cover that can potentially be exposed to damage. You have to install an additional lever that takes up space in the cab. They are limited to only a few models of axles such as Dana's, Ford 8.8/10.25/10.50, Chrsyler 8.25, GM 8.5/10 bolt, AMC 20. No Toyota or Ford 9" options.

OX Locker
ox locker.jpeg



Types of Auto-Lockers:
  • Lunchbox Lockers (Spartan, Aussie, Lock-Right)
  • Auto-Locker with Full Carrier Replacement (Detroit, Yukon Grizzly)
Lunchbox Lockers and Auto-Lockers that replace the entire carrier work in the same way. They both replace the spider gears with a clutch/spider assembly that engages on their own as one tire loses traction.

Lunchbox lockers just replace the spider and side gears only. These can be done without removing the carrier or having to adjust the ring gear backlash since everything stays in place.
The benefit is that they are cheap and easy to install with basic mechanical experience. They work great for an auto-locker and will last a long time to mild abuse.
The disadvantage of a lunchbox locker is that they are not as strong since they retain the original differential carrier.

Lunchbox Locker
Spartan.jpg


Full Carrier Replacement Auto-Lockers (Detroit Locker) are very strong and reliable lockers. They cost more money than a lunchbox locker and take a professional to install properly, however they are much stronger.
The advantage of these are the increased carrier strength compared to the lunchbox lockers. With more strength, there will be less deflection at the ring gear, resulting in a stronger, more reliable differential.
The disadvantage is the cost compared to a lunchbox since they are a more expensive upfront cost as well as the cost to pay a professional to set it up properly.

Detroit Locker
Detroit Eaton.jpg


There are Spools and Mini-Spools that leave the deferential locked at all times. There is no engagement/disengagement with these. They are permanently locked.
Mini-Spools just replace the spider and side gears, while a full Spool replaces the entire carrier. Typically these options are left for rigs that only see the trail and are not street driven vehicles, although there are plenty of guys that still run them on weekend warrior type rigs that see plenty of street and dirt.
The benefit is that they are extremely cheap and strong.
The disadvantage is that the diff is locked at all times and makes street driving less attractive and wears tires easily. It also doesn't allow you to unlock in tight situations to help with steering/turning.

Spool
Spool.jpg



I'm sure I've missing things and might have some things wrong somewhere in there, so feel free to give some feedback or corrections.
 
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RPS1030

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Additional points:

Auto-Lockers:
They usually engage/Lock with torque applied. A twin stick t-case shifter can disengage the front output and taking away the torque input will usually allow the front locker to engage.

Atlas and shifting the rear out will allow the rear to act the same way.


Breakage:
Most any locker does not like shafts breaking. Sometimes, the tension and wind up before a shaft breaks causes the locker to also be damaged at the same time.
 

opt.offroad

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FWIW I wheel the piss out of my truck, and have run front and rear auto lockers with no issues for years. In the same amount of time I’ve seen probably a dozen failures with selectable lockers for one reason or another, usually having to do with the selectability functions.
More expensive isn’t always better folks :beathorse:
 

AssBurns

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FWIW I wheel the piss out of my truck, and have run front and rear auto lockers with no issues for years. In the same amount of time I’ve seen probably a dozen failures with selectable lockers for one reason or another, usually having to do with the selectability functions.
More expensive isn’t always better folks :beathorse:
For a rear locker, I'd absolutely recommend a Detroit locker. Front locker not so much. Our rigs don't have strong enough front end parts for an accidental front lock up while driving in 4wd at speeds. Especially on snow or icy conditions where an open diff is preferred. Still better than nothing, that's for sure!
 

RPS1030

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For straight hardcore crawling, I've seen enough evidence to want to go selectable Rear before Front.

Locked rear has a tendency to push to front end despite turning angle and locked/unlocked front. More so when climbing. Can also affect chassis lean/torque/roll being locked or unlocked in the rear.
 

AssBurns

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For straight hardcore crawling, I've seen enough evidence to want to go selectable Rear before Front.

Locked rear has a tendency to push to front end despite turning angle and locked/unlocked front. More so when climbing. Can also affect chassis lean/torque/roll being locked or unlocked in the rear.
Agreed. For hardcore offroading, it is very nice to be able to unlock the rear to keep it from pushing. I watched my dad have that issue in his XJ a couple years ago in a tight section. Fully locked he couldn't turn the wheels for shit so he unlocked the front, but the rear locked kept wanting to push him straight instead of let the front wheels steer him. He had an auto-locker in the rear, so there wasn't anything he could do about it.

I think for 90% of the people that go offroading, will have no major issues with an auto-locker front or rear. They are cheap and easy, but they definitely have their limits like you pointed out. However, selectable lockers have way more reliability issues and typically cost way more. I'd say, if you can afford it, get selectable. If money is an issue, go with an auto-locker. Just know the pro's and con's of each when you make your decision.
 

RPS1030

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Agreed. For hardcore offroading, it is very nice to be able to unlock the rear to keep it from pushing. I watched my dad have that issue in his XJ a couple years ago in a tight section. Fully locked he couldn't turn the wheels for shit so he unlocked the front, but the rear locked kept wanting to push him straight instead of let the front wheels steer him. He had an auto-locker in the rear, so there wasn't anything he could do about it.

I think for 90% of the people that go offroading, will have no major issues with an auto-locker front or rear. They are cheap and easy, but they definitely have their limits like you pointed out. However, selectable lockers have way more reliability issues and typically cost way more. I'd say, if you can afford it, get selectable. If money is an issue, go with an auto-locker. Just know the pro's and con's of each when you make your decision.

For sure. And as you already said, typical IFS takes more strength upgrades to handle being locked (either style, more so with Autos).
 

theesotericone

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For straight hardcore crawling, I've seen enough evidence to want to go selectable Rear before Front.

Locked rear has a tendency to push to front end despite turning angle and locked/unlocked front. More so when climbing. Can also affect chassis lean/torque/roll being locked or unlocked in the rear.

Yep. The opposite can also be useful. Being locked up front and disconnected in the rear(AKA Front Digs) can get you out of some stuff that otherwise would leave you winching. If I could have fit a rear disconnect in when I did my duals I would have. Sadly, with my rig, it's either duals and no disco or no duals. While front digs are super cool, dual cases are way cooler. lol


Agree that it is better to have the selectabilty, I’m not arguing against that. But the reliability is a huge factor for me. That was my only point :thumbsup:

They are reliable and I completely agree with your point about them. I went selectable F/R. One reason was a larger carrier. With ARB you get a much, much stronger carrier. I might go with RCV CV's if they ever get off there ass and make them for a 3rd gen runner. I'm going to start a thread about that here shortly. I'd like some other folks input about having a very, very strong CV, a very very strong carrier. Where does that put the weak link in the front system? Gears or intermediate shafts. Both can be cryod or boron treated. Is it worth it?
 

AssBurns

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Yep. The opposite can also be useful. Being locked up front and disconnected in the rear(AKA Front Digs) can get you out of some stuff that otherwise would leave you winching. If I could have fit a rear disconnect in when I did my duals I would have. Sadly, with my rig, it's either duals and no disco or no duals. While front digs are super cool, dual cases are way cooler. lol




They are reliable and I completely agree with your point about them. I went selectable F/R. One reason was a larger carrier. With ARB you get a much, much stronger carrier. I might go with RCV CV's if they ever get off there ass and make them for a 3rd gen runner. I'm going to start a thread about that here shortly. I'd like some other folks input about having a very, very strong CV, a very very strong carrier. Where does that put the weak link in the front system? Gears or intermediate shafts. Both can be cryod or boron treated. Is it worth it?
Definitely time to start a new thread on that! :thumbsup:

As for a stronger carrier, you can get a Detroit Locker, which replaces the whole carrier. Definitely a strong option over a lunchbox locker such as Spartan or Aussie.
 

Hold My Beer & Watch This

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They are reliable and I completely agree with your point about them. I went selectable F/R. One reason was a larger carrier. With ARB you get a much, much stronger carrier. I might go with RCV CV's if they ever get off there ass and make them for a 3rd gen runner. I'm going to start a thread about that here shortly. I'd like some other folks input about having a very, very strong CV, a very very strong carrier. Where does that put the weak link in the front system? Gears or intermediate shafts. Both can be cryod or boron treated. Is it worth it?

FWIW, I have ARB f/r on a SFA with RCV's up front, as well as RCV chromoly hub gears. Your weak link will be the R&P. Things might be differnt on IFS, even if you have stronger, aftermarket cv's. Granted this was from a drunken night at Turkey Claw where I broke my rear driveshaft and had to back out a couple hundred yards in reverse and front wheel drive while being selective with the front ARB. Ideally, the U-joints would be the weak link since they are an easier trail fix and overall less costly.

image.jpeg
 
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Just for reference. I ran a Yukon Grizzly Zip locker (Air) that I bought brand new, in box for $450. Wheeled with that for 5 years before re-gearing and doing ARB's front and back. Literally no difference in performance. Same thing. Neither have failed on me. The ARB compressor (base model, smallest one) sucked dick. I blew pressure valves constantly when they would get hot in the engine bay. I got the slightly bigger $250 ARB compressor and have had no issues.
 

TRDrodeo

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When the time comes, and I hope its soon, I'll be putting in the Powertrax auto-locker.

I agree that the whole 'Auto' side of that type of locker is it's downfall at the same time. On some of the trails I visit I can actually already predict where I might get a 'pushing' from the rear that I don't want.

However, I would also be able to take much different lines than I do now, with both my rear wheels doing what they're told. As opposed to me avoiding extremely off-camber sections where I know I'll have a rear wheel in the air and not contributing much.
 

AssBurns

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When the time comes, and I hope its soon, I'll be putting in the Powertrax auto-locker.

I agree that the whole 'Auto' side of that type of locker is it's downfall at the same time. On some of the trails I visit I can actually already predict where I might get a 'pushing' from the rear that I don't want.

However, I would also be able to take much different lines than I do now, with both my rear wheels doing what they're told. As opposed to me avoiding extremely off-camber sections where I know I'll have a rear wheel in the air and not contributing much.
Exactly! Typically a locker is better than no locker in most situations. You’ll rarely find yourself in a situation that a locker inhibits you offroad. I’d say the only time you should really be picky with a locker is when you can afford the cost of a selectable locker. Otherwise, it’s almosr always better to have a locker when offroading.
 

Theblackflag

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@AssBurns You forgot the tried and true Lincoln Locker :D Id also add for the Harrop e lockers that they don't stay locked when on like the ARB, Yukon, or TJM lockers. When you switch from forward to reverse or vise versa because of how the locking mechanism works the locker will turn back to the unlocked position and then turn to relock. This happens any time you switch directions or roll back and can become an issue in some situations where you need full traction right away. This video does a good job of showing what I'm talking about.

Personally, I love my ARB and will never run anything but air lockers in any truck I build. They're proven, fairly simple, and I have seen very very few failures. If you run the airlines properly they are no less prone to damage than wires for an elocker either. I have had my rear locker in for a little over 15 thousand miles and have had zero issues. It locks up every time instantly or at most within 1/16th of a turn of the tire.
 
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AssBurns

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@AssBurns You forgot the tried and true Lincoln Locker :D Id also add for the Harrop e lockers that they don't stay locked when on like the ARB, Yukon, or TJM lockers. When you switch from forward to reverse or vise versa because of how the locking mechanism works the locker will turn back to the unlocked position and then turn to relock. This happens any time you switch directions or roll back and can become an issue in some situations where you need full traction right away. This video does a good job of showing what I'm talking about.

Personally, I love my ARB and will never run anything but air lockers in any truck I build. They're proven, fairly simple, and I have seen very very few failures. If you run the airlines properly they are no less prone to damage than wires for an elocker either. I have had my rear locker in for a little over 15 thousand miles and have had zero issues. It locks up every time instantly or at most within 1/16th of a turn of the tire.
Hahah for the Lincoln locker, I’d classify that with the mini-spool. Definitely the cheapest and easiest option, but highly discouraged. It works though!

I didn’t put that the Harrop takes 270° rotation to fully engage. I’ll add what you said to it as well with the direction changes.

Didn’t you have an issue with the bonded seal on your ARB? That’s an extremely common issue with ARB lately, and is completely unacceptable in my option, considering the cost of the locker. I love my ARB, but I’ve seen so many issues with them. I’ve seen the bonded seal fail too many times, I’ve seen there be an air leak somewhere in the diff causing pressure in the axle housing and puking gear oil out of the breather or push gear oil through the air line and clog the solenoid. That causes complete loss of the lockers ability to work. Mechanically, I’ve never seen the metal components break. It’s just been the seals failing. I still think ARB is the way to go, but I think ARB has been really dropping the ball lately on these bonded seal issues.
 

Theblackflag

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Hahah for the Lincoln locker, I’d classify that with the mini-spool. Definitely the cheapest and easiest option, but highly discouraged. It works though!

I didn’t put that the Harrop takes 270° rotation to fully engage. I’ll add what you said to it as well with the direction changes.

Didn’t you have an issue with the bonded seal on your ARB? That’s an extremely common issue with ARB lately, and is completely unacceptable in my option, considering the cost of the locker. I love my ARB, but I’ve seen so many issues with them. I’ve seen the bonded seal fail too many times, I’ve seen there be an air leak somewhere in the diff causing pressure in the axle housing and puking gear oil out of the breather or push gear oil through the air line and clog the solenoid. That causes complete loss of the lockers ability to work. Mechanically, I’ve never seen the metal components break. It’s just been the seals failing. I still think ARB is the way to go, but I think ARB has been really dropping the ball lately on these bonded seal issues.

I did have an issue with the arb upon initail install. What it ended up being was a small amount of machining debris left in the case that would only cause a leak when the locker fully engaged. Definitely a fault on ARBs end. However between ecgs and ARB that locker was bench tested at least 3 times before it reached me and the issue wasn't caught .That the part that really had me perplexed.

The air lines getting a small amount of oil in them is normal according to ARB, which I suppose makes sense seeing as the heating and cooling off different metals could allow a small amount of seepage. I know mine had aavery small amount in the line at the diff when I had it apart last but none at the solenoid. If it were to clog the solenoid they're super easy to dissasemble and clean on the trail if need be. Takes about 20 minutes and basic hand tools we all carry.
 
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What about the Detroit trutrac? I know it’s not a true locker but it still should add a fair amount of traction and shouldn’t break cvs like lockers will. Has anybody ran one up front? I’m thinking about it when I regear my taco to 5.29s, I’m aware that if one tire comes off the ground it’s just going to 1 wheel and that’s ok but with the kind of wheeling I do there’s usually a lot of tire slip anyway so I think a limited slip would be perfect, and not hurt my ability to drift in 4x4 like an auto locker would
 

AssBurns

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What about the Detroit trutrac? I know it’s not a true locker but it still should add a fair amount of traction and shouldn’t break cvs like lockers will. Has anybody ran one up front? I’m thinking about it when I regear my taco to 5.29s, I’m aware that if one tire comes off the ground it’s just going to 1 wheel and that’s ok but with the kind of wheeling I do there’s usually a lot of tire slip anyway so I think a limited slip would be perfect, and not hurt my ability to drift in 4x4 like an auto locker would
IMO, I wouldn’t waste time with a limited slip up front. Might as well just throw in a locker and only use it when you need it. It would be a shame to spend all that money on a limited slip up front and still not have it help you get unstuck from a tight bind. Then regret it and have to spend money again on a locker and installation. $$$
 
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