kasnerd's build

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Apr 22, 2019
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#83
Somebody tell 81trekker that the fucking core support does not get trashed from the tires hitting the inner fenders please....
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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#84
Somebody tell 81trekker that the fucking core support does not get trashed from the tires hitting the inner fenders please....
Well when the inner fenders fall apart from the tires smashing into it, and you have a 50 lb battery sitting on the cracked fenders, and pulling on the core support... It's a combination of things. Tires smashing into shit doesn't make things any better.
I do think that most of the issues are caused by lack of support for the type of abuse we put our rigs through is the main issue.
 

kasnerd

never a mile from a good burrito
Joined
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Inland Armpit, SoCal
#85
Somebody tell 81trekker that the fucking core support does not get trashed from the tires hitting the inner fenders please....
all the stamped tissue metal is not designed for abuse. It's a mattrr of time. Battery relocating is a must. Safer and less shit swinging in the wind.
 
Joined
Apr 22, 2019
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#86
Well when the inner fenders fall apart from the tires smashing into it, and you have a 50 lb battery sitting on the cracked fenders, and pulling on the core support... It's a combination of things. Tires smashing into shit doesn't make things any better.
I do think that most of the issues are caused by lack of support for the type of abuse we put our rigs through is the main issue.
I have run 35s for two years now. Fixed my core support three years ago. I have very little rub at full lock/bump. Last year I had to fix my core support again.
It is my humble opinion based on my experience that the cracking core support is due to stresses introduced by the body flexing during suspension articulation. The rear cab mounts are on the section of the frame that is just channel. The front two are on a heavily reinforced section, as are the rad support bushings. The rear of the cab moving causes the front to move, but the core support is at the end of the chain an is relatively solidly mounted(especially if poly mounts are used to replace worn factory rubber bushings).
Add to the fact that the core support is flimsy light gauge material and has two giant holes cut in it for the headlights and the problem is quite evident. No to mention that those of use with DCLBs seem to have the worst core support damage, which could be seen as evidence to support my theory.
But I could be wrong.
 

kasnerd

never a mile from a good burrito
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#87
I have run 35s for two years now. Fixed my core support three years ago. I have very little rub at full lock/bump. Last year I had to fix my core support again.
It is my humble opinion based on my experience that the cracking core support is due to stresses introduced by the body flexing during suspension articulation. The rear cab mounts are on the section of the frame that is just channel. The front two are on a heavily reinforced section, as are the rad support bushings. The rear of the cab moving causes the front to move, but the core support is at the end of the chain an is relatively solidly mounted(especially if poly mounts are used to replace worn factory rubber bushings).
Add to the fact that the core support is flimsy light gauge material and has two giant holes cut in it for the headlights and the problem is quite evident. No to mention that those of use with DCLBs seem to have the worst core support damage, which could be seen as evidence to support my theory.
But I could be wrong.
yep, and how many of us have replaced body mounts and dclbs have more junk to move around, slop in the bushings... the next weakest thing breaks. I need to do the fronts there's probably 3/8" of slop.
 

Arcticelf

Head BFH Operator at Gray Man Fab
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DelCo PA
#88
yep, and how many of us have replaced body mounts and dclbs have more junk to move around, slop in the bushings... the next weakest thing breaks. I need to do the fronts there's probably 3/8" of slop.
I'm not sure if the problem is excessive movement in the front body/frame mounts or not enough. Certainly that structure isn't up to the challenge, but I got worse cracking when I replaced the front bushings than when I had the beat to shit OEM ones in there.
 

kasnerd

never a mile from a good burrito
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#89
I'm not sure if the problem is excessive movement in the front body/frame mounts or not enough. Certainly that structure isn't up to the challenge, but I got worse cracking when I replaced the front bushings than when I had the beat to shit OEM ones in there.
Yep, the new bushings made it worse by transferring more load into the already weakened metal...would have accelerated it. Before, the worn out mounts were allowing some of the movement to play out there instead of propigating (is that even the right fancy word?) into the surrounding areas.

I need to replace mine before they do the same thing....OR...JD has a new inner fender panel but lets be honest. Any wheeling and that stamped tissue paper they call steel will wrinkle and tear. It all needs to go and be replaced with REAL metal.
 
Joined
Apr 22, 2019
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#90
I'm not sure if the problem is excessive movement in the front body/frame mounts or not enough. Certainly that structure isn't up to the challenge, but I got worse cracking when I replaced the front bushings than when I had the beat to shit OEM ones in there.
Can't find the pic, but I now have a crack behind the hood hinge in the cowl area.
Time to cage and LT this bitch.
Maybe when my Bronco comes in and becomes my DD
 

Arcticelf

Head BFH Operator at Gray Man Fab
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DelCo PA
#92
Can't find the pic, but I now have a crack behind the hood hinge in the cowl area.
Time to cage and LT this bitch.
Maybe when my Bronco comes in and becomes my DD
This is the way.

I'm going to attach my hood and fenders to the engine cage, not the cab, when I put it back together.
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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#93
This is the way.

I'm going to attach my hood and fenders to the engine cage, not the cab, when I put it back together.
That's the only option. Ask me how I know...
My hood was held on by one hood pin. Both hinges broke and one hood pin sheared. I was being lazy and left the hinges on the cab. Now that I have it on the cage/chassis, it is all good. Now my hood is a little deformed lol
 

Arcticelf

Head BFH Operator at Gray Man Fab
Joined
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Messages
860
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DelCo PA
#94
That's the only option. Ask me how I know...
My hood was held on by one hood pin. Both hinges broke and one hood pin sheared. I was being lazy and left the hinges on the cab. Now that I have it on the cage/chassis, it is all good. Now my hood is a little deformed lol
I remember that story...

My only worry is the gap between the fender and the cab now has to be bigger.

I'm also going to put the hinges on the front, so even if the clips fail it will mostly stay down.
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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#97
I remember that story...

My only worry is the gap between the fender and the cab now has to be bigger.

I'm also going to put the hinges on the front, so even if the clips fail it will mostly stay down.
Yeah, I didn’t leave any further gap for the fenders and it rubs near the top of the fender at the A pillars. Mine is already so beat to shit that I stopped caring about that stuff. Eventually I’ll have the cab tied into a cage but that probably won’t happen till next year sometime.
 

kasnerd

never a mile from a good burrito
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Inland Armpit, SoCal
#98
Update! Getting closer to taking the truck down for the cuttin and burnin. Added a few more items to the list...one truck ahead of me and evenflow (tw) will be up soon.

SUA conversion, deavers, 3.0 14" kings
Howe steering pump and quick steer links
25gal fuel cell (g'bye taco lean)
ECU tune (fingers crossed)
Bed cap reinforcement.
High stall converter (possible)

We're goin places...

Gotta get the radiator installed and take off all the crap that's been bolted on. Gonna have a one man mod-week. Someone make an offering to the bad back gods or I'll need to adopt a kid for a helper.
 

Itaro

Mommas don’t let your babies grow up to be soybois
Shit poster
Joined
Oct 5, 2018
Messages
7,522
#99
Update! Getting closer to taking the truck down for the cuttin and burnin. Added a few more items to the list...one truck ahead of me and evenflow (tw) will be up soon.

SUA conversion, deavers, 3.0 14" kings
Howe steering pump and quick steer links
25gal fuel cell (g'bye taco lean)
ECU tune (fingers crossed)
Bed cap reinforcement.
High stall converter (possible)

We're goin places...

Gotta get the radiator installed and take off all the crap that's been bolted on. Gonna have a one man mod-week. Someone make an offering to the bad back gods or I'll need to adopt a kid for a helper.
Why not 16”?
 
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