FreshSeaBass Build Thread

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Dec 12, 2019
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364
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Dahlonega, Georgia
Out of curiosity...whats the plan for that Toyota front axle?
Transfer case choice is undetermined. Planning to build a 'doubler' and I have a gear driven case for the W59 to sandwich into the original case, that would make it a drive side drop..... Alternatively I would drop another gear case unit in place and run 2x VF1A's; making it pass-drop....


The above scenarios will determine whether or not I will flip the housing from drive to pass.

As far as the width is concerned, I will be cutting the knuckle balls out and burning in a pressed-fit sleeve to widen the housing, then burning the knuckle balls in to the corrected caster. Current plans will be to widen the housing to match the rear. Some say the housings are 55.5"... some say 56.5".

Going to run the 'Big Brake' upgrade (my stock 4R brakes) on IFS hubs. IFS manual hub assemblies will add 3" in width and give me the big brakes, the axle tube sleeves will give me another ~3" of width; no wheel spacers, or jank involved to screw up my scrub radius.

At the end of it all, I should have an exact WMS match to the rear housing

Check out this thread for some examples.....


The ideal final product

1701699435685.png
 
Joined
Dec 12, 2019
Messages
364
Age
27
Location
Dahlonega, Georgia
Out of curiosity...whats the plan for that Toyota front axle?
The aforementioned machined sleeve. This one is courtesy of Mayhem Metalworks (AM4x4) over on Pirate, but will likely need to be modified to suit the width I am after. A second will be made to suit the end goal track width.

Media
 
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If you're going that route why not widen it an extra inch on each side so it tracks better when steering. At the amount of work you're putting in on a Toyota axle would selling it to a 80's owner who needs a SAS be worth while and take that money and apply to a D44 housing you could build? Not telling you what to do by any means lol. I like the idea of keeping the rig "all" Toyota.
 
Joined
Dec 12, 2019
Messages
364
Age
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Location
Dahlonega, Georgia
If you're going that route why not widen it an extra inch on each side so it tracks better when steering. At the amount of work you're putting in on a Toyota axle would selling it to a 80's owner who needs a SAS be worth while and take that money and apply to a D44 housing you could build? Not telling you what to do by any means lol. I like the idea of keeping the rig "all" Toyota.
The 3G rear is supposedly 60.75" (I will be verifying that), but some people have measured them to be 61.75" ; ( I don't trust what is on the web and I am working on getting a precise WMS to WMS for clarification).

You are on the money.. if the WMS of the mini truck axle is 55.5" vs 56.5" or vise versa, the tube sleeve lengths will change to 1" TLG + IFS hub width.

At the moment, I have three 4.30 third member's (one complete e locker, one open diff, and an E-locker bare shell). After picking up the new housing and a full knuckle seal pack, the overall expenditure is looking to be on the low end fortunately with not having to outsource any labor.
 
Joined
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Messages
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Learning lots of things working on some other stuff and realizing that I love a clean sheet.. I won't be wasting time working around all of the sheet metal;

Mapping it all out at the moment but the plan will be to work on blanking plates at the firewall as a base and tubing the engine bay for the rest.



Tons of dirt, silt and gravel trapped over the years in the fenders.



Entertaining the idea of steel blanking plates with rivnuts, and plating/ tubing the entire engine bay with Alu tube to make a bolt on/off engine bay.



All ideas are welcome.... May start an engine bay thread
 

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Joined
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Exciting times... I never knew that I could fit a forklift in the garage. It's been a long day of figuring out how to get this precious cargo rigged up and safely transported.

Success!

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After using the lift points designed to take nominal pipe for lifting and lifting it as a sling, it dawned on me that I could weld tube to the two pipes, front to back.... It essentially gave us a deck to lift from and not have to rely on straps.



Friggin' A..... It worked so well. Gained all of the lfit clearance needed and kept the mast below the door.

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Time to get to setting it all back up
 

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Joined
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Messages
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Dahlonega, Georgia
Starting a Partial Part-Out: Next phase is turning into a 3/4 Runner, which means I will be getting rid of everything behind the rear passenger doors. Chopping the frame somewhere in that area, so if anyone wants a rear frame quarter and an Eimkeith Bumper, I'll be working to pull that off in the coming weeks.

I have some more modern tail lights, maybe a hatch, rear glass, etc.....

Older photos of Bumper, but I added a dimple pattern to it.
 

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