AssBurns BeerRunner Build Thread

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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AssBurns

will wheel for beer
Staff member
Joined
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Messages
6,183
Age
28
Location
Yucaipa, CA
By my count, you jumped it 2 1/2 times right there.
Nice rebound.
Lol, right? It's hard to get it valved to be able to take jumps and not be ridiculously stiff when you only have like 10" of travel up front lol
LT is in the works. Just waiting for @Konkordmusk to get things cut and bent. That should help the jumping stuff quite a bit. I'm hoping to pick up some 2.5 or 3.0 bypasses when I install the LT too. That'll definitely be a huge improvement.
 
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Lol, right? It's hard to get it valved to be able to take jumps and not be ridiculously stiff when you only have like 10" of travel up front lol
LT is in the works. Just waiting for @Konkordmusk to get things cut and bent. That should help the jumping stuff quite a bit. I'm hoping to pick up some 2.5 or 3.0 bypasses when I install the LT too. That'll definitely be a huge improvement.
You've probably wondered the same thing, but do you know if its possible to move the stock bumpstop steel an inch or 2 up and get more uptravel?
As in, just cut it out, trim, and weld a plate back in?
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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You've probably wondered the same thing, but do you know if its possible to move the stock bumpstop steel an inch or 2 up and get more uptravel?
As in, just cut it out, trim, and weld a plate back in?
I don't see why you couldn't make that happen. As long as you can keep your tires from hitting anything, then might as well go for it. On the LT I designed, I pushed the LBJ forward 2" so that I can get a little more room for the tire to clear the firewall. I've already tubbed the firewall, but I can't easily go much further into the cab with the tubbing. I already have no inner fenders so I have room to go up if I can clear the upper portion of the firewall.
 
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I don't see why you couldn't make that happen. As long as you can keep your tires from hitting anything, then might as well go for it. On the LT I designed, I pushed the LBJ forward 2" so that I can get a little more room for the tire to clear the firewall. I've already tubbed the firewall, but I can't easily go much further into the cab with the tubbing. I already have no inner fenders so I have room to go up if I can clear the upper portion of the firewall.
I think I'll try it on my taco before I chop it up.
Nothing to lose. Will ride a bit weird with like 20 in of travel in the rear and a 4 link and ifs up front lmao.
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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Made a little progress on the 9” axle I’ve had laying around for the past few months. Maybe I’ll order the axle shafts and brakes to get it done here soon. The heat and lack of motivation has been the worst for progress. Now things aren’t 100°+ out, I don’t mind



DF619DD2-DB80-45D5-BBF0-6ACB6AC87315.jpeg


Got the beadlocks done before my Rubicon trip a few weeks back. Used some of the knockoff “steel it” stainless steel paint from AutoZone ($10/can) for the wheel and I had the rings sand blasted to just be raw aluminum. Turned out exactly how I was hoping so I’m happy there. So glad I didn’t leave them black. Can’t stand black



D43BFBF6-81E7-4E32-943B-3AFCFC69CB2C.jpeg


Rubicon didn’t go as expected. We left a day earlier than we initially planned so we can spend more time relaxing at the lakes and drinking beer. We got on the trail around noon Thursday morning and within about 2 miles I snapped a front axle shaft in the diff. Not even on a tough spot. Super lame. Pictured below is me trying to weld a bolt to the stub to get it out. Swim trunks and flip flops are OSHA approved for sure!
Well that didn’t work out so I figured I’d just take it easy and do everything in 2lo or 3wd when necessary. Made it to Spider Lake for camp the first night with no further issues.
Next morning we made it another mile or two (just past the 5 Mike marker) when my ARB locker lost the seal. It’s been something I should have taken care of since it started kicking on the compressor pretty often when in use. Just shitty time for it to go out at this point.
From here I made it another few hundred yards when my steering rack blew out the seals causing me to lose all the fluid; leaving me with no power steering. Man what shitty luck for it to go out here.
So at this point I turned around and had Robert help get me to the trailhead with quite a bit of tow strap usage since I couldn’t steer into decent lines. He just drug me over everything lol.
The trip was a clusterfuck but I still had a blast. Better than being stressed out at work.


2F92A8F9-AB82-476C-A0B0-E5C2EC0B2451.jpeg 1236AE8B-19C3-47E1-97B3-1834194A8D7A.jpeg E4696B50-49AD-4663-A782-86FBBD9E2780.jpeg
 

theesotericone

Build It Beat It Break It. Repeat
Fredo Baggins
Joined
Oct 3, 2018
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2,906
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Bishop, CA
Made a little progress on the 9” axle I’ve had laying around for the past few months. Maybe I’ll order the axle shafts and brakes to get it done here soon. The heat and lack of motivation has been the worst for progress. Now things aren’t 100°+ out, I don’t mind



View attachment 28005


Got the beadlocks done before my Rubicon trip a few weeks back. Used some of the knockoff “steel it” stainless steel paint from AutoZone ($10/can) for the wheel and I had the rings sand blasted to just be raw aluminum. Turned out exactly how I was hoping so I’m happy there. So glad I didn’t leave them black. Can’t stand black



View attachment 28006


Rubicon didn’t go as expected. We left a day earlier than we initially planned so we can spend more time relaxing at the lakes and drinking beer. We got on the trail around noon Thursday morning and within about 2 miles I snapped a front axle shaft in the diff. Not even on a tough spot. Super lame. Pictured below is me trying to weld a bolt to the stub to get it out. Swim trunks and flip flops are OSHA approved for sure!
Well that didn’t work out so I figured I’d just take it easy and do everything in 2lo or 3wd when necessary. Made it to Spider Lake for camp the first night with no further issues.
Next morning we made it another mile or two (just past the 5 Mike marker) when my ARB locker lost the seal. It’s been something I should have taken care of since it started kicking on the compressor pretty often when in use. Just shitty time for it to go out at this point.
From here I made it another few hundred yards when my steering rack blew out the seals causing me to lose all the fluid; leaving me with no power steering. Man what shitty luck for it to go out here.
So at this point I turned around and had Robert help get me to the trailhead with quite a bit of tow strap usage since I couldn’t steer into decent lines. He just drug me over everything lol.
The trip was a clusterfuck but I still had a blast. Better than being stressed out at work.


View attachment 28007 View attachment 28008 View attachment 28009

Damn. Sorry to hear about the bad luck on the Rubi. Did you try pulling the other side CV and ramming the broken driver side out? Looks like you had a nice flat sandy spot to work at least.

When's the major work going to start on your rig?
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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Damn. Sorry to hear about the bad luck on the Rubi. Did you try pulling the other side CV and ramming the broken driver side out? Looks like you had a nice flat sandy spot to work at least.

When's the major work going to start on your rig?
That woulding work unless I pulled the ADD tube out and the ADD stub shaft out. I'm gonna have to pull the diff apart anyways to get the ARB seal fixed, so I'll just do it all at once, and throw the Non-ADD tube on while I'm in there.

Still debating the major work side of things. I think I'm just gonna call this season a loss, and keep saving for the parts I need to get everything done.
- Finish the rear axle, and do coilovers in the rear
- Upgrade steering
- Try to do the motor swap
- Finish the LT up front

It's a lot, but if I buckle down I might be able to make it all happen. I have a lot of the parts ready to go, but need top get the rest of it and actually start working on it again.

@AssBurns were you able to determine the root cause of the steering rack failure?
Blew the seals out on both sides. Not sure much could be done to keep that from happening again. I think those rack savers might help a tiny bit, but based on how the deflection pushes on the seals, I think the seals would get trashed either way.

My plan is to just got full hydro with a PSC 2.5" x 8" double ended ram, and the rest of the whole PSC kit. I'll have to limit the throw on the ram to somewhere around 6", but the 8" width is just about perfect for what I need. With a low volume Load Reactive, Open Center Orbital Valve, I can still maintain road feel a little and not have it be super touchy or sketchy on the highway. If it is too sketch for the highway (which I don't think it will be with the proper setup), then I'll just make it a trailer queen.
 
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That woulding work unless I pulled the ADD tube out and the ADD stub shaft out. I'm gonna have to pull the diff apart anyways to get the ARB seal fixed, so I'll just do it all at once, and throw the Non-ADD tube on while I'm in there.

Still debating the major work side of things. I think I'm just gonna call this season a loss, and keep saving for the parts I need to get everything done.
- Finish the rear axle, and do coilovers in the rear
- Upgrade steering
- Try to do the motor swap
- Finish the LT up front

It's a lot, but if I buckle down I might be able to make it all happen. I have a lot of the parts ready to go, but need top get the rest of it and actually start working on it again.


Blew the seals out on both sides. Not sure much could be done to keep that from happening again. I think those rack savers might help a tiny bit, but based on how the deflection pushes on the seals, I think the seals would get trashed either way.

My plan is to just got full hydro with a PSC 2.5" x 8" double ended ram, and the rest of the whole PSC kit. I'll have to limit the throw on the ram to somewhere around 6", but the 8" width is just about perfect for what I need. With a low volume Load Reactive, Open Center Orbital Valve, I can still maintain road feel a little and not have it be super touchy or sketchy on the highway. If it is too sketch for the highway (which I don't think it will be with the proper setup), then I'll just make it a trailer queen.
factory rack? or parts store reman? any leaking/weeping prior? No previously damaged mounts? Trying to collect some data to avoid future repeats.

My best-Gen tundra rack measured 6.198" stroke. Dunno if yours is the same stroke or not. Internal limits on an 8" should be easy enough, or custom cylinder is an option if needed for ya.
 
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