Financial Ruin Build, It only gets worse (SAS from hell)

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Apr 23, 2019
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Little update, I dropped the engine off last friday afternoon. This is so far the worst they have found..
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My builder says he thinks he can bore it out and not have to replace the sleeves so looks like this 2.7 might turn into a 2.8/2.9 L. He thinks that the engine may have been over heated. Really wish the previous owner would have just said what went wrong instead of acting like he didn’t know. But she will be back soon so it’s no biggy.
 
Joined
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I know updates have been slacking. A lot of waiting for parts to come in, delay after delay. I did the motor back quick though. I am just waiting on a few more parts to come in so I am really hoping it will be back in the truck by this weekend.

I took this time to go through the truck and found out the ac comp was shwasted. Catastrophically fucked and everything else in the mix. So got that rebuild, new condenser, lines, and txv. I’m not replacing the evaporator I will just flush it with some denatured alcohol and call it good.


Also while investigating under the truck I am not sure the tcases are mounted to the trans adapter properly as noted by all the gear oil over my drive way. That’s not a big deal to me, lets me know it’s out of fluid when it stops leaking. How ever what I did find slightly more alarming was the fact all the driveshaft bolts were just hand tight. I don’t know why I would expect anything less but I am glad I checked since I have driven the truck and if that shit came loose while driving that wouldn’t have been super fun.
So hopefully this rebuilt engine is “good”. I have my doubts seeing some of the work done just to the outside, but I am praying because I don’t want this truck raping my wallet anymore than it already is.

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Dukestaco

Stirring the pot 24/7
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I know updates have been slacking. A lot of waiting for parts to come in, delay after delay. I did the motor back quick though. I am just waiting on a few more parts to come in so I am really hoping it will be back in the truck by this weekend.

I took this time to go through the truck and found out the ac comp was shwasted. Catastrophically fucked and everything else in the mix. So got that rebuild, new condenser, lines, and txv. I’m not replacing the evaporator I will just flush it with some denatured alcohol and call it good.


Also while investigating under the truck I am not sure the tcases are mounted to the trans adapter properly as noted by all the gear oil over my drive way. That’s not a big deal to me, lets me know it’s out of fluid when it stops leaking. How ever what I did find slightly more alarming was the fact all the driveshaft bolts were just hand tight. I don’t know why I would expect anything less but I am glad I checked since I have driven the truck and if that shit came loose while driving that wouldn’t have been super fun.
So hopefully this rebuilt engine is “good”. I have my doubts seeing some of the work done just to the outside, but I am praying because I don’t want this truck raping my wallet anymore than it already is.

View attachment 34735View attachment 34736
Smallest oil filter ever.
 
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Apr 23, 2019
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Smallest oil filter ever.
That’s for the AC, it’s job is to try and prevent metal going through out the system which is somewhat did I suppose. I did “flush” the evaporator out and replaced all the ac lines so that should be sorted.
I fired the truck up yesterday for the first time and it is working great, builds oil pressure quickly. All I need to do today when I get home from work is fill it with coolant, move a couple hose clamps, and put the front tires back on and she should be ready for her first test drive. I have a feeling the clutch is going to be a lot overkill until I put a snail on but hopefully it’s still drivable in the mean time. I installed the lce dual comp clutch if anyone is curious.
Also just a note for anyone listening, if you ever plan on replacing your motor.. do yourself a favor and pressure wash the ever living shit out of the engine bay. I mean top and bottom. I was getting so pissed with dirt falling into my eyes. Yeah I know goggles right? They always fog up for me.


So my investigating down under the truck I have discovered it’s using an inchworm adapter for the dual case setup. Which is strange because from what I have seen those are only stated to fit to the A750 not the R155. Not sure but either way sooner rather than later it’s going to have to come off and get a reseal.

I guess I need to change the name of the thread now.
 
Joined
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Ok what should I name the thread?
I am between Lil Tikes solid axle since it’s my first, or great value bought not built since I bought it and it’s definitely not built the best. :popcorn2:
 

Itaro

Seriously, FJB
Joined
Oct 5, 2018
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Ok what should I name the thread?
I am between Lil Tikes solid axle since it’s my first, or great value bought not built since I bought it and it’s definitely not built the best. :popcorn2:
How about the SAS BFD (bad financial decision)?
 
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Well I drove the shitbox last night. Clutch I got is definitely super aggressive which probably wasn’t wise. Pos still grinds going into 3rd unless I double clutch which if I am being honest I don’t really care about that, but I have been getting some weird death wobbly shit going on. Not sure why as it didn’t do that before I pulled the motor. Truck is also sitting 2” higher on the passenger side for some reason now lol. Maybe I am going to name it Worst financial decision because I am tempted to chomp all these leaf springs off and go linked with ori’s. Also this welded diff has to go, so god damn annoying. Not as annoying as the t case sticks buzzing around. Currently there is no cross member for the cases, which is probably part of the issue. Pic included of hackjob of a trim piece (made of metal for extra annoyance with the sticks vibin).
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I am pretty sure it’s possible to get all 3 sticks next to each other which I would like to do but I haven’t found anything yet.
 
Joined
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What a few days it has been. I finally got this stupid piece of shit registered. It’s throwing a p0441 incorrect purge flow evap code. I tried gas cap but ofc that wasn’t it. Long story short i reset code and kept driving around the smog shop until the other monitors were ready except evap and got it to pass. When leaving not even .5 miles from the smog station the check engine light came back on. Oh well fuckers it’s registered.

After all the driving around I put a good 50 ish miles on the truck maybe more. Parked it and went inside to cool off. Came out and the transfer cases are leaking like a fuckin gang bang. Fuckem.
I changed the trans fluid because it was shifting like shit and grinding going into 3rd and sometimes second with down shifts near impossible to get it to not grind. 085331F1-8C72-4143-A843-FB8E700756F0.png
Found this shit in the drain pan. This stupid bitch doesn’t wanna make anything easy. I put some nice expensive fluid in that I am going to flush back out in 500 miles because I am sure it will need it by then. I also replaced the shifter bushing &seat with the ones from marlin crawler. Not that it needed it, but it was nice and therapeutic after the shitshow discovering all that.
I ordered the front range offroad dual case cross member but I think I will need a body lift for it to fit. At this point I am considering using an angle grinder to the cab and plating it. Body lift would be easier but they are gay so idk.
One feature about the truck that I like is that I can drain the oil straight into a 5 gallon bucket.
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Also I found this sitting on top of the oil filter. Rebuild is solid yo
3A455179-ACE5-4B09-A3AF-4C0A80559108.jpegAt first glance it looks like some type of oring, but it’s actually silicone.

Anyone in the market for a sas 4cyl 5mt? It’s fuckin mint :peep:
(Disclaimer, you should wait until I fix everything then buy it. I like to make sure I am losing money on things I sell because I am an idiot).
Edit: also found the vibe problem, my dumb ass was driving with 4wd engaged (hubs unlocked).
 
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MountainTan

I have no idea what I am doing.
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May 4, 2019
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137
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Virginia
How many inch body lift you talking? I think a 1-2 inch just to give you some space and make it easier is acceptable at this point. You got to much shit to work on. Plus you can always get larger tires as well
 
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It’s hard to say for certain. I could probably cut the crossmember and weld it lower and be ok. 1-2 inches would probably do it, I just don’t care for body lifts. When I roll this thing over I don’t want my cab coming disconnected from the frame. My buddy is already trying to get me to go to tons so I can keep up with his buggy. Not going to happen for awhile.

I have a spare 3rd member from my other tacoma, I may send it off to have it regeared to 4.88s and have a proper locker installed. Driving through sharp turns with this welded diff is damn sketchy.

It’s hard to prioritize what to work on with this thing since everythings fucked. It now has 5 check engine lights. Two are evap related which I don’t really care about. Another is air injection which again, I couldn’t give any less fucks about emission bullshit. So really the only check engine lights that matter are one for the maf which I am going to clean, and one for the brake lights.

Also I got an aggressive clutch because I have turbo plans, which I now regret.

After doing some research it appears these gear driven cases just like to leak. I wonder if I used the orange toyota FIPG stuff if that would work better thsn the dark grey shit in there now. Baby steps with this.

Hope yall had a good Easter
 

4runner DOA

Hold my beer
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It’s hard to say for certain. I could probably cut the crossmember and weld it lower and be ok. 1-2 inches would probably do it, I just don’t care for body lifts. When I roll this thing over I don’t want my cab coming disconnected from the frame. My buddy is already trying to get me to go to tons so I can keep up with his buggy. Not going to happen for awhile.

I have a spare 3rd member from my other tacoma, I may send it off to have it regeared to 4.88s and have a proper locker installed. Driving through sharp turns with this welded diff is damn sketchy.

It’s hard to prioritize what to work on with this thing since everythings fucked. It now has 5 check engine lights. Two are evap related which I don’t really care about. Another is air injection which again, I couldn’t give any less fucks about emission bullshit. So really the only check engine lights that matter are one for the maf which I am going to clean, and one for the brake lights.

Also I got an aggressive clutch because I have turbo plans, which I now regret.

After doing some research it appears these gear driven cases just like to leak. I wonder if I used the orange toyota FIPG stuff if that would work better thsn the dark grey shit in there now. Baby steps with this.

Hope yall had a good Easter

Welded and lunch box lockers are noisy and take some time to get used to. You don't daily it, so it's just a matter of getting used to driving it to the trails. Might try pulling the cases and seal them with red rtv? Leaking gear oil annoys me. I just recently redid my 3rd member because it was dripping.
 
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Welded and lunch box lockers are noisy and take some time to get used to. You don't daily it, so it's just a matter of getting used to driving it to the trails. Might try pulling the cases and seal them with red rtv? Leaking gear oil annoys me. I just recently redid my 3rd member because it was dripping.
This is true. I think I need to tighten up the steering there is a lot of free play. That may help with driving it. As far as driving on the freeway it’s actually not too bad other than everything vibrating like crazy. Not sure why yet, I am gonna stick a go pro down there and see wtf is going on.
I may try that, is the red rtv good for gear oil? I don’t mind a few drops here and there but these things are leaking pretty bad. The output seals are definitely toast so I will need to eventually replace those.
 

4runner DOA

Hold my beer
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This is true. I think I need to tighten up the steering there is a lot of free play. That may help with driving it. As far as driving on the freeway it’s actually not too bad other than everything vibrating like crazy. Not sure why yet, I am gonna stick a go pro down there and see wtf is going on.
I may try that, is the red rtv good for gear oil? I don’t mind a few drops here and there but these things are leaking pretty bad. The output seals are definitely toast so I will need to eventually replace those.

Red rtv is all I've used on my rear diff for the last 4 years. Only time I've had it actually leak is when I don't check the 3rd nuts and they've come loose, or I didn't have a clean surface when I sealed.
 
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