If you can work with those then that's what I'll pick up. Ended up cleaning the garage all day instead of checking things.
4th gen 4runner lower links
- Thread starter 4runner DOA
- Start date
If you can work with those then that's what I'll pick up. Ended up cleaning the garage all day instead of checking things.
Just check the clearance of what you got now and we will do those joints with whatever size tubing we need.
Easy enough. I'll pull tires and put the frame on stands.
There we go.
madtaco461
BRO-runner
Is 1.75 x .25 crazy enough?
It's pretty beefy if it's the same that they used for 3rd gen runner's. I saw @theesotericone links last weekend. 2" is what @AssBurns has some extra of though already so as long as it clears I'll never bend one of those.
Itaro
Seriously, FJB
- Joined
- Oct 5, 2018
- Messages
- 13,115
Such a size queen
Yeah 1.75” x .250” will be plenty for the length of his links and the way he drives. My old links were also 2” x .250” and they were only like 20” long. No way those would ever come close to bending. Now with my new links being about 42” long, the lowers are 2” x .250” and I wouldn’t trust anything less than that for that length. Luckily I almost never hit them.
But yeah, I got like 15’ of 2” x .250” at home that I probably won’t use anytime soon so might as well build some links that’ll never come close to bending
madtaco461
BRO-runner
That makes sense, you have stock floating around. If buying new 1.75 would of been fine for stock length
Mine will be a little longer than stock but probably yeah.
Not too much room to work with but with a rod end on the axle side vs a bushing we might be okay with the 2".
Not quite at bumps but there's almost an inch to the shock body. Shock shaft has plenty of room.
Not bumps
Full droop. 1/2" to the shock mount.
Full droop just about a 1/2" to the axle.
Not quite at bumps but there's almost an inch to the shock body. Shock shaft has plenty of room.
Not bumps
Full droop. 1/2" to the shock mount.
Full droop just about a 1/2" to the axle.
If these fake ones were made exactly like total chaos then they're 1 1/4" already. Which means we need less than 1/2" of room for the 2" links.
Pretty close. 1.27 (fucking glare)
Pretty close. 1.27 (fucking glare)
Damn it'll be super close with 2.0" tube. Whatcha think? Think we can pull it off, or should we just get 1.75" x .250"? I can call the local steel supply and get a quote on like 48" of 1.75" DOM, or you can call somewhere local to you too. Up to you on what you think works. Either one will have plenty of strength, so that's not a real worry either way.
Also did you buy 2 LH thread and 2 RH thread joints?
I hope so...
I hope so...
Also again, if we go down to 1.75" Tube, we will need different joints with a 1" threaded shank since the bungs will need to be the right size to fit inside the tube, but still have enough room for the threaded shank end.
2.0 x .250 has an ID of 1.5"
1.75 x .250 has an ID of 1.25"
Can't fit a 1.25" shank into a 1.25" ID tube, so we need at least 1/4" difference for the bung to fit in there.
2.0 x .250 has an ID of 1.5"
1.75 x .250 has an ID of 1.25"
Can't fit a 1.25" shank into a 1.25" ID tube, so we need at least 1/4" difference for the bung to fit in there.
I think we'll be okay with the 2" worst case I run the axle side out enough to clear. Only need about 1/2" of less than 2" I think.
No. Fuck I didn't even think of that. All 4 RH and they already shipped. Just means I have to drop one side to adjust right? Once it's set up correctly it shouldn't matter.
Dumbass! Call Currie to see if you can swing by and exchange two of them for LH threads. Don't waste your time making links that are a huge pain in the ass to adjust. You'll love having the ease of adjustability by having opposite threads.
I'll give them a ring next week. Worst case it's a set it and forget it. I've got @Plastics Guy bumps to put on and they should help center the axle where it needs to be.
While you call them, order some 1.5” ID bungs and jam nuts.
So beefy
