4Runner re? build

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Still ignoring the fucked up lowers.

With steering on the cv doesn’t bund on full droop it just sits in ubj.

Looks like I’ll me redoing the tie rods also to put an angle in them, once I do Ithink they will be good for all of the travel. They have plenty of room at full bump but full droop and full lock the opposite way that side tie rod will bind around the last inch of travel.

i should probably change the caster to 0 from 10 and re cycle to make sure this is correct with some room for error but I’m feeling lazy

Pics probably don’t make any sense but they are at the correct steering angle or on the steering stop with the tie rod at bind so I can see how much space I need or extra I have.
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2.5 ish deg caster pretty similar just less severe. I’m going to angle the tie rod 12-15 deg I think then I can split the angle between angling the inner rod back so the inside doesn’t bind and pushing the inner up for better droop at the cost of compression.

Pushing it back will also give me a little more room at the limit strap because it is about 3/8” at bump which I’m sure isn’t ideal for it to ever rub.
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This might be a dumb question but how are you checking caster?

Estimated with an angle finder on the spindle along the steering axis at expected ride height.

Caster is just the angle back (positive) or forward (negative) of the steering axis (line through the center of the upper and lower ball joints) from straight up.

I don't need it to be exact. I am just changing it around because the placement of the arms will change things like clearance at the coilover and tie rod angles. I am just looking to test a range higher and lower than I expect to use to know that I will have clearance.
 
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Distracting myself from these fucked up lowers by buying more shit. This thing is going to be like the shitty soccer mom version of @cbechtold

Plan was to just use these on the road buttt I kinda want to put them on the beadlocks now. I’ll see how fucked I am when trying to clear them.
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Distracting myself from these fucked up lowers by buying more shit. This thing is going to be like the shitty soccer mom version of @cbechtold

Plan was to just use these on the road buttt I kinda want to put them on the beadlocks now. I’ll see how fucked I am when trying to clear them.
View attachment 82620

Ha! Those Yokohamas have been great to me. Great highway manners and fairly quite for a MT. They don't hook up as well as my old MTRs in the rocks, but they're solid! Too bad they'll be coming off my rig in a few months for something new... :anon:
 
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Ha! Those Yokohamas have been great to me. Great highway manners and fairly quite for a MT. They don't hook up as well as my old MTRs in the rocks, but they're solid! Too bad they'll be coming off my rig in a few months for something new... :anon:
Hope that means 37s…

Are these chunking bad for you? And how sticky are they on rock compared to the mtrs?

these are 37s and I really can’t decide if I put them on the beadlocks and just run these or my original plan was to just run these on the wheels the pbrs are on now for longer trips. Then I can keep the rockers on Beadlocks for actual crawling since they are pretty grippy but wear faster

35s are probably better for longevity especially with wheel speed but the 37s would be easier to just have one set and they are cool lmao. Any opinions on sticking with the 35 pbrs or going to the 37s? Actual height difference is about 1.5”
 
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Hope that means 37s…

Are these chunking bad for you? And how sticky are they on rock compared to the mtrs?

these are 37s and I really can’t decide if I put them on the beadlocks and just run these or my original plan was to just run these on the wheels the pbrs are on now for longer trips. Then I can keep the rockers on Beadlocks for actual crawling since they are pretty grippy but wear faster

35s are probably better for longevity especially with wheel speed but the 37s would be easier to just have one set and they are cool lmao. Any opinions on sticking with the 35 pbrs or going to the 37s? Actual height difference is about 1.5”

Most likely going to stay on 35s for the time being. I'll probably run the truck as is for a while, but once I link the rear, I'll throw a Ford 9" in the rear while I'm at it and beef up a few things to get her ready to handle 37s.

I've had zero issues with chunking so far. As for comparing them, to the MTRs, the MTRs are definitely more gear towards off road performance. Once you got the MTRs warm, they did amazing in the rocks. The Yokohamas need a lot of time to warm up, and they're fine once warm, but not as sticky as my old MTRs. It's weird to describe it since the biggest thing I first noticed with the Yokohamas was the ground clearance since I had just moved up to 35s from worn down 33s.

Beadlocks are great, but if you need a tire changed in a pinch or a flat fixed, it's not as simple as take it to your local Discount Tire or America's Tire for a fix. Plus a good majority of tire shops won't service beadlocks at all due to the legality of having them on the road.

My 2 cents on 35s vs 37s, is that I think the sweet spot will be 35s for the vast majority of builds. It's a big enough tire to be very capable, while not putting too much stress on components to cause either failures or breakage. Less unsprung weight, lots of wheel and tire options. 37s would be great, but it's definitely going to be a tire more for a dedicated wheeler, and someone who does mostly rock crawling so they can justify the extra size and weight for the extra ground clearance.
 
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Yea I think Im going to run the beadlocks on 37s once on a trip at the end of the month back to missouri to try them out for a lot of hwy and some rough wheeling. The following weekend is jamboree back in tx and I’ll put the 35s back on atleast for a bit to meet the tire class for the rock garden race.

Probably buy my buddies bead grips up there and I think I’m going to go with those and a lot of bead sealer gasket shit long term. We will see how they run at 5psi and lower and if I am happy illl ditch the beadlocks.

37s vs 35s we will see but I’m really trying to push myself to use the low gearing and crawl instead of using momentum. If I stick to that I think 37s will work if not I don’t think the front diff will hold and the rear is on the edge of it’s capability I’m sure.

I don’t think it will be a bad thing to clearance for 37s since rubbing pisses me off so if I go back down it wont rub.
 
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This feels good. These springs flex forever I love it. This is at ride height but I’ll probably preload it more still.

Need to check passenger side and finish it up then I am swapping limit strap to the front and bump to the rear to keep it on the side of the arm I didn’t hack up.
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Pass side has some problems.

Coilover has 1” from cv to body so I’ll be moving the mount to give it another tenth to match the pass side. It also hits max droop before cv binds so I’m moving it 1/4” up ish to put those at the same spot.

Have plenty of room in the ubj on down travel because it looks like the spindle ubj spot is at a different angle from the driver side. Binds bad at full bump turning passenger and it was already cracking from something in the past few months. Im just going to bend it where I want and weld the fuck out of the gusset to hold it there. If it doesn’t bind somewhere in travel I shouldn’t have it break again hopefully.
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Spindles were super nice to weld other than the paint I was too lazy to clean out of the cracks. Fingers crossed it likes this angle.

Lowers are both done other than limit strap tab on pass side that I need to wait to place.

Tomorrow I’m hoping to get the rear third back into the axle and under the vehicle to start the 500 mile break in soon.
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Goal is to drive it this weekend we will see how much I get fucked by work… and putting together these stupid ass wheels

Front forged 17x8s are only 33lbs the rear cast 10 wides are 43. They look killer so far so I’m still torn on if i ditch them and go to bead grips
 
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Not finished obviously but it drives.

But apparently I should have trimmed the passenger bumper atleast before I went to cruise around. I rubbed it last night playing with the body lean on a roundabout which just trimmed some lugs but today I hit a bump in a slight turn and it just at the tire. I just pushed it into the grass and got out to look and somehow the tire still has air despite steel cords sticking out.

Also this thing still doesn’t flex for shit unless you get the ass in the air.

Running a spacer on the passenger front and I need to add one to driver front because it sounds like it runs caliper sometimes

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Dezert4Runner

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You dodged a bullet on that test drive! What spring rate are you running up front?
 
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18” 500s

I’m going to dump my thoughts to see if anyone has some other ideas on springs I may want to run since I’m on the fence about these. I want it a little higher but I can only give it another 1/4” of preload before the coil binds on compression. It does absolutely float over curbs at 30 though haha

Both coils are sitting at 13.375” at ride height

4.625” compressed x 500 is 2312lbs per coil

Which gives me the following math. Seems odd that the 550 to 600 block height is such a big difference when the 500 to 550 is so small but the data matches on Kartek and McKenzies.

I want to cling on to whatever little flex I have in the front but my spring rate may not matter near as much when I hopefully get myself an actually functional sway bar for the rear and force the front to flex. But that may be a while.

Probably going to max out the preload and get the alignment closer so I’m not rilling around with 5 degrees of camber. Hopefully do bumps and straps tomorrow then get it loaded down and check my ride height with skids, spare, tools etc.

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4runner DOA

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18” 500s

I’m going to dump my thoughts to see if anyone has some other ideas on springs I may want to run since I’m on the fence about these. I want it a little higher but I can only give it another 1/4” of preload before the coil binds on compression. It does absolutely float over curbs at 30 though haha

Both coils are sitting at 13.375” at ride height

4.625” compressed x 500 is 2312lbs per coil

Which gives me the following math. Seems odd that the 550 to 600 block height is such a big difference when the 500 to 550 is so small but the data matches on Kartek and McKenzies.

I want to cling on to whatever little flex I have in the front but my spring rate may not matter near as much when I hopefully get myself an actually functional sway bar for the rear and force the front to flex. But that may be a while.

Probably going to max out the preload and get the alignment closer so I’m not rilling around with 5 degrees of camber. Hopefully do bumps and straps tomorrow then get it loaded down and check my ride height with skids, spare, tools etc.

View attachment 82755

I hope you meant 5 degrees of caster because 5* camber isn't good. :rofl:
 
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