4Runner re? build

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Oct 20, 2020
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Any suggestions on where to relocate battery? I’m leaning to behind the passenger seat where I can keep it low but I am doubtful it will fit back under the hood.

Working to clear with the new suspension.
Before
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Remove battery tray
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Beat the fuck out of everything. Tried to leave the tub but it started to fall apart because I was getting into it with the hammer. Ended up. Chopping some more while it was out.
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4runner DOA

Hold my beer
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Any suggestions on where to relocate battery? I’m leaning to behind the passenger seat where I can keep it low but I am doubtful it will fit back under the hood.

Working to clear with the new suspension.
Before
View attachment 82469
Remove battery tray
View attachment 82470
Beat the fuck out of everything. Tried to leave the tub but it started to fall apart because I was getting into it with the hammer. Ended up. Chopping some more while it was out.
View attachment 82471
View attachment 82472
View attachment 82473

@AssBurns relocated to the cargo bay.
 
Joined
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Messages
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Rather keep it all low. I don’t like bodylifts.

I am thinking about modifying my front bumper to essentially be for a 1” body lift though to raise it up for better clearance and I’ll chop the bottom of fenders and grill to clear it.
 
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Feb 13, 2022
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Body lift = fast / easy. I did that for the time being.

Clean out engine bay and re do inner fenders is the right way.
 
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4lb drilling hammer and a good baseball swing = right way ish… everything is falling apart though so I’m just going to throw more sheet metal at it and maybe some tube along the top.
 
Joined
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Any chance anyone knows the max steering angle of a third gen 4Runner? even knowing a tacoma or later 4runner would help me know where to start.

Working on calculations for cv angles and how much travel I can pull. LT axle is 16.5" ish from pivot to pivot. RCV inners do 30 degrees and outers are advertised to do 45 but they told me that is the very max and they recommend planning on 40...

parts store "high angle" cv axles with the middle slip joint advertise 47 degrees but people have broken them off at the splines in the front diff which I would like to avoid after how long it took me to punch that add stub out of the front diff

comparing both theoretical maxes at a 33 degree steering angle -

RCV will travel 16.5" limited by the inner joint, outer joint at full droop / bump and full lock will be at 40.98 degrees
parts store axle with 20" of travel the outer joint would still only be at 45.15 degrees at full droop or bump and full lock.

Currently thinking I stick with RCVs since they will coverall the travel the upper uniball can. Cant decide if I order whole new axles or just the longer center bar or joint rebuild kits also to go with the longer bar.

Speaking of upper uniball these calculations suck ass. If I remember right the stock arm is 8" which makes the LT arm 11.5. camburg misalignments for a 1"uniball with a 5/8 bolt do 64 degrees which translates to 12.2" of travel... which sucks. Odd thing is I swear I've gotten 13" minimum out of my kit from where I drooped it to where I have it stuffed to to clear. Hopefully Im getting some measurements wrong here. seems odd the mcm kit would claim 13-14"

I could retrofit in icon delta joints (75 degrees) with no fab work and bump it up to 14" of travel but i am waiting for confirmation from icon on those angles

also could retrofit to jba joint for 90 degrees = 16.25" but that would be a good bit more fab and my tires would not clear on 0 offset
 
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Well I fucked up some math somewhere but it works in my favor. Upper is bound at droop but still has room on compression so it will do 15”+.

Cutting up the uppers and lowers today. uppers need heims lowers need more room for coilover on 3bump.
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Uppers done. Lowers are taking super long. Need a better plan for how I want to keep strength with how I’m chopping them up. Probably extending to the front with a triangle to help it slide up over rocks as well and boxing with a tube to get to the coilover bolt.

Pain in the ass to guess what angle I need to clear the coilover at so I’m praying my guess work will turn out well.
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I forget how long this shit takes making carboard templates, cutting, trimming and repeat until you weld it in then do it all again for the next piece.hopefully the other side is faster since I have a plan and I can reuse templates.

Still need to box in the front but my brain cell is on his last leg so that will happen tomorrow.
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Airdog

Did Your Mom
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Oct 5, 2018
Messages
543
Are you making your own spindles or using stock?? If stock...i'd put your steering tie rods on and see where they bind before you call 15 inches of travel.
 
Joined
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Are you making your own spindles or using stock?? If stock...i'd put your steering tie rods on and see where they bind before you call 15 inches of travel.
Stock spindles. I didn’t intend to claim I will get 15”+ of travel just that is what the upper uniball seems capable of. Outer tie rods seem like they will bind around 14 from what I measure.

May look at some stud type rod ends for the outside at the ball joint if they are really limiting me.
 
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Definitely could be better but I’m not going to worry about it right now unless these fold when I drop it from a forklift. Uppers, lowers and tie rods done. I’ll figure out what I fucked up tomorrow when I start putting it on.
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Airdog

Did Your Mom
Joined
Oct 5, 2018
Messages
543
Stock spindles. I didn’t intend to claim I will get 15”+ of travel just that is what the upper uniball seems capable of. Outer tie rods seem like they will bind around 14 from what I measure.

May look at some stud type rod ends for the outside at the ball joint if they are really limiting me.
Wasnt baggin on you about the travel numbers just didn’t know if you knew the spindle/tie rods could be limiting you Thought I’d point it out.
My outer tie rod ends are 3/4 Heims and are my limiting factor for my down travel and the UCA cup is my up travel limiter. So I’m bumped and strapped based on those 2 items. I’m at 13 3/4 travel at the hub currently. Someday I’ll get a kit with a fabricated spindle that gets rid of those 2 issues.
 
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Yea I just really want to avoid having to double shear all of my lbjs so I figured I would give it a shot with stock outers.
I’ll probably look around and see what is out there for stud type rod ends like this… looks like one of these is even tapered
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Yea I fucked up having trust in the last guys placement of the shock. I shifted it 2” back lowered it and pushed it 1/4” further forward to give a little extra room for the axles and that shit isn’t even close.

Anyone know if different misalignments for the shocks where I could gain a little room? I think I should be good with an inch between the axle and shock on full bump and lock where it is closest so I need 1/2” from somewhere. Misalignments and moving where the top is mounted could get me close.

Really don’t want to redo these fucking arms but I should probably just suck it up and do it.

Cool thing is it cycles 14 5/8 ish between cv starting to bind at droop and ubj hitting fender, binding and shock nearly bottoms out all at the same spot at the top. 14” bumped and strapped should be possible depending on how bad these outer tie rods fuck me.

Thinking about changing upper arm heims so the ubj binds in droop before the axles but they wouldn’t matter unless I snap a limit strap so I probably won’t.
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