Just need a clevis kit for the steering rack. Could probably make my own but having a machined billet one is pretty nice.
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Well LT should be fairly quick. Cage and engine swap, not so much but hopefully the engine swap can be knocked out in a few weeks worth of work.WTF man? You're starting all this shit in April? Guess I'll wheel alone all summer. lol
Remember to leave a pocket for the CV at full droop. It eats up a shitload of room.Steering at 35° and 20° angle up as if simulating full droop. Still extra room for error.
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I will be modelling up the spindle next for this exact reason. I should have plenty of room with this design. It's pretty much straight from the frame pivots to right under the spindle.Remember to leave a pocket for the CV at full droop. It eats up a shitload of room.
Haha yeah it is. Only reason I am thinking of going with the 1.5" uniball is the price is not much higher than the 1", it has a few degrees more misalignment with a 3/4" bolt, and should last longerThat uniball is fucking huge....
I will be modelling up the spindle next for this exact reason. I should have plenty of room with this design. It's pretty much straight from the frame pivots to right under the spindle.
I gotta mock up the steering and UCA to make sure I get bump steer eliminated as much as possible, and make sure there is no bind in the outer CV since the LCA pivot isn't in the exact same position as stock. I'm hoping I can get the joint as far out board as possible with this massive uniball. I may have to go down to a 1" uniball if I can't get it far enough outboard to get property SAI and CV pivot angles with steering.
No, for this I am going to be using the stock spindle. Once I do the whole 1 ton IFS thing, I will be using the 05+ Super Duty Unit Bearing hubs and custom spindle.You're doing a D44 hub and spindle, right?
No, for this I am going to be using the stock spindle. Once I do the whole 1 ton IFS thing, I will be using the 05+ Super Duty Unit Bearing hubs and custom spindle.
I am thinking about reusing my SPC uppers and just modifying them to work with LT. Basically just cut off the tubes and make new ones 3.5" longer. Or I can sleeve the tubes and make it even easier.Are you doing a horizontal uniball for the upper too? Or standard until you make the new hubs?
I am thinking about reusing my SPC uppers and just modifying them to work with LT. Basically just cut off the tubes and make new ones 3.5" longer. Or I can sleeve the tubes and make it even easier.
On the 1 Ton IFS I will be doing horizontal uniball for upper and lower. The plan is to bump off the spindle for a legit bump zone.
did you learn this the hard way?Things I learned today:
Moly CV grease contains molybdenum disulfide as it's main ingredient. That's what makes it black/gray and such a fucking mess.
When heated it can release Sulfur Dioxide or Disulfur-Dicloride, depending on the specifics of how it's heated and what else is there.
Both SO2 and S2Cl2 are highly toxic and cause chemical burns when inhaled. Good news is they aren't nearly as bad as Phosgene, but still very bad.
I did not, I learned this from the MSDS.did you learn this the hard way?
Things I learned today:
Moly CV grease contains molybdenum disulfide as it's main ingredient. That's what makes it black/gray and such a fucking mess.
When heated it can release Sulfur Dioxide or Disulfur-Dicloride, depending on the specifics of how it's heated and what else is there.
Both SO2 and S2Cl2 are highly toxic and cause chemical burns when inhaled. Good news is they aren't nearly as bad as Phosgene, but still very bad.
That might explain why I smell sulfur when I first get on the freeway. Got a blown boot on the passenger side, it's probably almost empty and heating up whatever grease is left in there when I'm getting up to speed. Guess it's time to put the OEMs back in while I'm replacing my control arms.