- Joined
- Nov 15, 2018
- Messages
- 2,045
Introduction:
A few months ago I was tagged to goto a thread with someone needing help in testing out the install of a high-lift gas strut hood kit by Spiker Engineering (web site: https://spikerengineering.com/ ) for a 1st Generation Toyota Tacoma. More specifically, as much as possible, an early 1st Generation Toyota Tacoma, which mine happens to be a 1998. I offered my help to Leon in using my truck to be used as a test bed to confirm clearances were good in certain areas along the inside hood-edge making note if the battery is of any concern of being an obstruction to the gas strut assembly when fully closed. As well as going through the instructions sheets and giving any input and/or any changes that I think would be of help to improve install for future customers.
This is how it came packaged... as you can see, very professional looking and great care with their product. The mounting hardware, instructions, and the gas struts. HAHAHAHAHA, I was hoping for a sticker as well???
Discussion:
So, I will first discuss 1) packaging and tool prepping 2) reading the instruction sheets and doing a pre-check before any drilling or installing 3) watching the suggested video that the instructions suggested will help in visualizing your own install 4) the install itself on my ’98 Tacoma and what I think would be helpful tools to have and finally 5) my thoughts about the product.
1) Packaging and Tool Prepping:
So, when Spiker Engineering shipped me the kit, which was fast and extremely well packaged with tracker provided, I emptied the contents of the box and unfolded the instruction sheets noticing a components inventory check list of what is included with the kit. Reading a bit further, tools needed for the install. I inspected the gas strut assemblies as well as the ball stud mounting brackets. You will find that the construction of these gas struts and the ball stud mount brackets are very sturdy looking and feeling. In short, a very professional looking kit for sure that, once installed, you will be proud to show off.
As for the install, a basic hand rivet gun, razor blade, electrical tape, a ratchet type load bar, right angle power drill (will discuss this further), basic tool set (i.e. screwdrivers, ratchet socket set, etc), a sharpie, and a drill bit set. I also found it helpful to have digital caliper, but definitely NOT necessary.
2) Reading the Instructions and Pre-check
I made sure to read the instructions as it is not all that long and it has some good example pictures of what to look out for during your install. It helped to look at the future work area while reading and understanding the instructions, which I will discuss why it is important to do a pre-check. But with that said, I recommend simply taking the time to read the instructions first and looking over the “future work area” as it really helped with my install and I was able to avoid a possible problem if I had not taken the time to do a visual inspection first while reading the instructions (i.e. the pictures below will show how my setup was at the time before install).
Also, as part of my pre-check, I propped the hood using the stock hood prop and made sure my ditch lights, as well as any other brackets/light assemblies/etc were not going to be an issue if I was to raise the hood as high as possible. Then I “unlatched” the hood prop from the hood itself and raised the hood as high as possible without “over raising”, if you will. Or put simply, I raised the hood until I could no longer raise/open it and just stopped where it stopped. This also helped me visualize what it would look like.
3) Suggested Video Before Install
Within the instructions, it will direct you to a url for a video to watch of an actual install. There is one thing in the video of the hood bracket itself installed backwards, but the instructions, as well as I, will point out how to install the hood bracket correctly. In either case, taking the time to watch the video really helped with visualizing the install that much further. I keep stressing this point because once you start drilling holes, mistakes are not going to be very forgiving. So, measure many, MANY TIMES and drill once!!!
A few months ago I was tagged to goto a thread with someone needing help in testing out the install of a high-lift gas strut hood kit by Spiker Engineering (web site: https://spikerengineering.com/ ) for a 1st Generation Toyota Tacoma. More specifically, as much as possible, an early 1st Generation Toyota Tacoma, which mine happens to be a 1998. I offered my help to Leon in using my truck to be used as a test bed to confirm clearances were good in certain areas along the inside hood-edge making note if the battery is of any concern of being an obstruction to the gas strut assembly when fully closed. As well as going through the instructions sheets and giving any input and/or any changes that I think would be of help to improve install for future customers.
This is how it came packaged... as you can see, very professional looking and great care with their product. The mounting hardware, instructions, and the gas struts. HAHAHAHAHA, I was hoping for a sticker as well???
Discussion:
So, I will first discuss 1) packaging and tool prepping 2) reading the instruction sheets and doing a pre-check before any drilling or installing 3) watching the suggested video that the instructions suggested will help in visualizing your own install 4) the install itself on my ’98 Tacoma and what I think would be helpful tools to have and finally 5) my thoughts about the product.
1) Packaging and Tool Prepping:
So, when Spiker Engineering shipped me the kit, which was fast and extremely well packaged with tracker provided, I emptied the contents of the box and unfolded the instruction sheets noticing a components inventory check list of what is included with the kit. Reading a bit further, tools needed for the install. I inspected the gas strut assemblies as well as the ball stud mounting brackets. You will find that the construction of these gas struts and the ball stud mount brackets are very sturdy looking and feeling. In short, a very professional looking kit for sure that, once installed, you will be proud to show off.
As for the install, a basic hand rivet gun, razor blade, electrical tape, a ratchet type load bar, right angle power drill (will discuss this further), basic tool set (i.e. screwdrivers, ratchet socket set, etc), a sharpie, and a drill bit set. I also found it helpful to have digital caliper, but definitely NOT necessary.
2) Reading the Instructions and Pre-check
I made sure to read the instructions as it is not all that long and it has some good example pictures of what to look out for during your install. It helped to look at the future work area while reading and understanding the instructions, which I will discuss why it is important to do a pre-check. But with that said, I recommend simply taking the time to read the instructions first and looking over the “future work area” as it really helped with my install and I was able to avoid a possible problem if I had not taken the time to do a visual inspection first while reading the instructions (i.e. the pictures below will show how my setup was at the time before install).
Also, as part of my pre-check, I propped the hood using the stock hood prop and made sure my ditch lights, as well as any other brackets/light assemblies/etc were not going to be an issue if I was to raise the hood as high as possible. Then I “unlatched” the hood prop from the hood itself and raised the hood as high as possible without “over raising”, if you will. Or put simply, I raised the hood until I could no longer raise/open it and just stopped where it stopped. This also helped me visualize what it would look like.
3) Suggested Video Before Install
Within the instructions, it will direct you to a url for a video to watch of an actual install. There is one thing in the video of the hood bracket itself installed backwards, but the instructions, as well as I, will point out how to install the hood bracket correctly. In either case, taking the time to watch the video really helped with visualizing the install that much further. I keep stressing this point because once you start drilling holes, mistakes are not going to be very forgiving. So, measure many, MANY TIMES and drill once!!!
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